We are delighted to present our wide-leg, loose fit model, Tuff Tony, in the extraordinary Dry Ace Selvage. This remarkable fabric weighs 14.2 oz, features a rustic texture and a deep indigo hue with a strong red tone, making it a true work of art. Made by the renowned Shinya Mills in Okayama, Japan, it showcases the art of perfecting the imperfections of selvage denim.

The story behind Dry Ace Selvage is as fascinating as the fabric itself. It all started with a pair of unbranded vintage jeans, supposedly from the 1950s, found in a thrift store somewhere in the USA. These jeans showed signs of wear and significant fading, and most importantly, an incredible texture. They were sent to Japan, where the denim from these jeans was meticulously reconstructed in detail.

The art of reconstructing denim is a hallmark of the Japanese artisanal denim industry. Dry Ace Selvage is a remarkable example of this, as well as a testament to the unique collaborative approach sometimes employed for high-end Japanese denim. The rather extreme slub yarn is spun by Yamachu Mengyo Co. Ltd. in Osaka. The warp threads undergo an impressive total of 20 dips in pure indigo dye, resulting in a deeply saturated surface with a notably substantial undyed core, thanks to Kaihara Co. Ltd. in Hiroshima. Finally, the fabric is expertly woven under low tension on vintage looms by Shinya Mills in Okayama. The guiding principle here is - do what you do best - and the final product beautifully reflects the craftsmanship at every stage of denim creation.

The distinctive character of Ace comes from its thick and highly irregular yarns, the generous use of indigo, and the low tension weaving. These factors contribute to its pleasantly robust wearability. Over time, the dye quickly fades from the surface of the yarns, highlighting their slub, particularly in the vertical direction. When, or if, the jeans are washed, the yarns slightly rearrange, reducing the vertical slub and transitioning to a rustic cross-hatch texture with a coarse “salt and pepper” effect. Notably, the heavily saturated surface of the indigo yarns implies an extraordinary evolution. The wash initially causes the dye to bleed onto the white yarn, increasing the depth of colour. With successive washes, the indigo gradually fades to brighter shades of blue while preserving deeper tones at the seams and creases.

Due to its unparalleled aging properties, Ace undoubtedly stands as one of the best Japanese selvage denims we have ever encountered. We are therefore very proud to offer it in the Tuff Tony.